Unraveling Organic Wine Farming: Balancing Tradition and Innovation
As the demand for organic wines continues to surge, it prompts us to look into the essence of organic wine farming. But, is there a definitive answer to what constitutes organic wine? Well, yes and no.
Both the European Community (EU) and the USA have outlined explicit guidelines for organic wine farming, aligning closely in their principles. In the vineyard, the use of artificial fertilizers, synthetic chemical pesticides, herbicides, and GMOs is strictly prohibited. To combat diseases and pests, organic producers are permitted to employ select chemical products deemed “natural,” such as copper and sulfur. Organic fertilizers sourced from animals, plants, and composted grape skins, as well as certain plant extracts and microbial products, are also allowed.
However, the use of copper, a crucial tool, particularly in Europe, raises concerns due to its potential to build up in the soil. Ongoing research aims to find non-synthetic alternatives to combat downy mildew, that oh-so stubborn fungus disease. For many organic producers, copper remains an indispensable element in their fungus fighting arsenal.
In both the EU and the US, a comprehensive list of allowed and prohibited substances governs organic viticulture. Yet, there’s a notable difference that emerges when it comes to sulfites. In Europe, organic producers can introduce sulfites during winemaking and bottling, albeit in limited quantities. This serves as a preservative safeguarding the wine’s integrity until it reaches consumers.
Conversely, the US adopts a slightly more nuanced approach, categorizing organic wines into two distinct groups: “Organic wine” allows no added sulfites, although naturally occurring sulfur dioxide from fermentation remains present. On the other hand, “Wine made with organic grapes” permits the addition of sulfites, even with levels slightly lower than those permissible in Europe.
Transitioning to organic viticulture represents a significant shift for vineyards. While initial yield losses may occur, vineyards often find equilibrium, ultimately returning to standard production levels. Organic growers may need to adapt to more frequent spraying, as the approved products are “contact” in nature, necessitating reapplication in the event of rain. In contrast, non-organic producers utilize “systemic” treatments that penetrate the vine and provide prolonged protection.
For the majority of organic producers, the shift stems (see what we did there?) from a commitment to environmental stewardship and the belief that it results in superior wine. But more crucially, it is a measure to shield their families and workers from potentially hazardous synthetic substances. It seems that only in recent years has being an organic producer become a compelling marketing point and this has come as a result of the knowledge of how harmful certain farming practices can be to not just the land, but the people farming the land.
A small faction of organic producers may opt for a further leap into “biodynamic” farming. While distinct, biodynamics shares certain parallels with organic farming. Notably, biodynamic viticulture incorporates principles established by Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, advocating for practices that fortify vines against diseases. Key biodynamic preparations like 500 and 501, derived from cow manure and finely ground quartz, play pivotal roles in enhancing vine health.
In essence, organic and biodynamic farming seeks to enhance biodiversity in and around vineyards, creating thriving habitats for birds and insects. Although producers assert that organic wines exhibit heightened freshness, acidity, and earlier ripening, detecting an overt “organic or biodynamic flavor” remains a complex task for consumers, but cross-my-heart it makes me feel better while drinking it and also the next day. Ultimately, the quality of the wine hinges on the expertise and dedication of the wine producer, where organic practices serve as a means of prevention rather than a guarantee of taste.
